Te Ataahua o te Kakahu Brocade
▶ Whakataki i te Kakahu Parakaiti
He papanga whatu papai te papanga Brocade e tohuhia ana engā tauira uaua, kua whakaarahiaka whatu tika atu ki roto i te papanga, ka hangaia he kakano whakairo, he rite ki te whakairo.
He mea hanga tuku iho ihirakaā, he maha ngā wā ka whatua ki ngā miro whakarewa, ka kitea he kanapa nui, he kanapa ngā tae, ā, he taumaha nui. E mōhiotia ana mō tōna āhua papai me te arai huatau, ka hangaia te brocade ki runga i ngā whatu Jacquard, ā, he mea whiriwhiri tonu mō ngā kākahu ōkawa, ngā kākahu whakanui, me ngā whakapaipai papai.
Kakahu Paraikete
▶ Ngā Momo Kakahu Parakaiti
Hiraka Parakaiti
Ko te momo tino papai, he mea whatu ki ngā miro hiraka parakore, e whakamahia ana i roto i ngā momo ahua papai me ngā kākahu tuku iho.
Paraikete Whakarewa
He miro koura, hiriwa rānei hei whakakanapa i te kanapa, he mea rongonui i roto i ngā kākahu whakanui me ngā kākahu kingi
Miro Paraikete
He kōwhiringa māmā, he pai hoki mō ngā kākahu o ia rā me ngā kohinga raumati.
Zari Brocade
I ahu mai i Īnia, kei roto i tēnei rauemi ngā miro zari whakarewa, e kitea nuitia ana i roto i ngā sari me ngā kākahu marena.
He mea hanga ki te paraikete Jacquard
He mea hanga mā te whakamahi i ngā whatu Jacquard, e taea ai te hanga i ngā tauira uaua pērā i ngā putiputi, ngā hoahoa ā-ira rānei.
Wereweti Paraikete
E whakakotahi ana i te uaua o te brocade me te kakano maeneene o te weruweru mō ngā whakapaipai papai me ngā kākahu ahiahi.
Polyester Brocade
He huarahi utu iti, he roa hoki te mau, e whakamahia whānuitia ana i roto i ngā momo ahua hou me ngā whakapaipai kāinga.
▶ Ngā Whakamahinga o te Kakahu Parakaiti
Kākahu Ahua Nui
– Ngā kākahu ahiahi, ngā koti, me ngā kākahu couture me ngā tauira tapahi laser matatini
Kākahu Marena
– He whakapaipai ātaahua, he rite ki te rei, ki ngā kākahu marena me ngā arai
Whakapaipai Kāinga
– Ngā ārai whakapaipai, ngā uhi urunga, me ngā whāriki tēpu me ngā hoahoa tino tika
Ngā Taputapu
– Ngā pēke ringa, ngā hū, me ngā whakapaipai makawe ātaahua me ngā tapa tapahi ma
Ngā Pātene Pakitara o Roto
– Ngā uhi pakitara kakahu whakapaipai mō ngā wāhi papai
Tākai papai
– Ngā pouaka koha kounga teitei me ngā rauemi whakaaturanga
Ngā Kākahu Atamira
– Ngā kākahu whakaari e hiahia ana ki te whakapaipai me te pakari
▶ Kakahu Parakaiti vs. Ētahi Atu Kakahu
| Ngā Tuemi Whakataurite | Parakaiti | Hiraka | Wereweti | Reihi | Miro/Rine |
| Te Hanganga o ngā Rauemi | Miro hiraka/miro/miro hangai+miro whakarewa | Ngā muka hiraka tūturu | Hiraka/miro/hangai (puranga) | Miro/hangai (whatu tuwhera) | Ngā muka tipu tūturu |
| Ngā Āhuatanga o te Kakahu | Ngā tauira kua whakaarahia Kanapa whakarewa | Kanapa pērara Ārai wai | Kakano mātotoru Te mimiti mārama | Ngā tauira mārama Ataahua | Kakano tūturu Manawa |
| Ngā Whakamahinga Pai rawa atu | Haute couture Whakapaipai papai | Ngā hāte kounga teitei Ngā kākahu huatau | Ngā kākahu ahiahi Ngā whakapaipai | Ngā kākahu marena Ngā kākahu o roto | Kākahu o ia rā Kākahu Kāinga |
| Ngā Whakaritenga Tiaki | Horoi maroke anake Āta karohia ngā miro | Horoi ringa mātao Penapena ki te atarangi | Te tiaki mamaoa Te ārai i te puehu | Horoi ā-ringa motuhake Maroke papatahi | Ka taea te horoi mīhini Haumaru ki te rino |
▶ Mīhini Reihana e Manakohia ana mō te Kakahu Parakaiti
Ka Whakaritea e Mātou ngā Otinga Reera Whakarite mō te Whakaputa
Ōu Hiahia = Ā Mātou Whakatakotoranga
▶ Ngā Hipanga Kakahu Porokaiti Tapahi Taiaho
① Te Whakarite Rauemi
Ngā Paearu KōwhiringaHiraka whatu matotoru/puru paraikete hangai (ārai i te maru o te taha)
Tuhipoka Motuhake: Me whakarerekē ngā tawhā mō ngā papanga miro whakarewa
② Hoahoa Mamati
CAD/AI mō ngā tauira tino tika
Te tahuritanga kōnae vector (ngā hōputu DXF/SVG)
③ Tukanga Tapahi
Te whakatikatika i te roa o te arotahi
Te aroturukitanga wera-wā-tūturu
④ Tukatuka-muri
Te tango i ngā pakaru: Te horoi ultrasonic/te paraihe ngawari
Tautuhinga: Pēhi mamaoa pāmahana iti
Kei roto i ngā kaupae i runga ake nei te tukanga tapahi rēseri mō te brocade. He pai hoki tēnei hangarau tino tika mō ngā papanga pēnei i te nairona, te miro, me te muka waro. E whakaatu ana ngā ataata i raro nei i te āhua o te tapahi rēseri e whakarato ana i ngā taha hiri maeneene, te hanga tauira uaua, me te whakaputa aunoa puta noa i ngā rauemi kanorau.
▶Ataata e pā ana：
Ka taea e koe te tapahi i te nairona (te papanga māmā) mā te rēseri?
E whakaatu ana tēnei ataata i tētahi whakamātautau tapahi i runga i te papanga nairona mā te whakamahi i tētahi mīhini tapahi taiaho ā-ahumahi. He tino pai ngā hua: he maeneene ngā taha, he tika te hanga o ngā tauira uaua, he tere te mahi, me te whakaputa aunoa katoa. Mō ngā rauemi māmā engari he pakari pērā i te nairona me te polyester, ko te tapahi taiaho te mea tino pai rawa atu.
Ngā Kakahu Pai e 5 mō te Tapahi Taiaho
E whakaatu ana tēnei ataata i te tapahi taiaho CO₂—he tikanga tino tika, kāore e pā, e tuku ana i ngā tapahi hiri ki ngā papanga pēnei i te miro, te nairona, me te muka waro, hei ārai i te pakarukaru me te rewa, he mea tino pai mō te hanga ritenga me te hanga-iti.
▶ NGĀ PĀTAI Uiui
Whakamāramatanga Matua
Hepapanga whatu taumaha, whakapaipaiāhuatanga:
Ngā tauira kua whakaarahiai hangaia mā roto i ngā miro whatu tāpiri
Ngā whakapaipai whakarewa(he maha ngā miro koura/hiriwa) hei whakakanapa ataahua
Ngā hoahoa whakahurihurime te āhua rerekē o mua/muri
He rerekētanga matua te Brocade me te Jacquard
| Āhuatanga | Parakaiti | Jacquard 提花布 |
| Tauira | Ngā hoahoa kua whakaarahia, kua whakanikonikome te kanapa whakarewa. | Papatahi, paku teitei rānei, kāore he miro whakarewa. |
| Ngā Rauemi | Hiraka/hangaraume ngā miro whakarewa. | Tetahi muka(miro/hiraka/polyester). |
| Te whakaputanga | Ngā miro whatu tāpirii runga i ngā whatu jacquard mō ngā pānga teitei. | He whatu Jacquard anake,kāore he miro tāpiri. |
| Taumata papai | Teitei-mutunga(nā ngā miro whakarewa). | Tahua ki te papai(e whakawhirinaki ana ki ngā rauemi). |
| Ngā Whakamahinga Noa | Kākahu ahiahi, whakapaipai wahine marena, whakapaipai papai. | Ngā hāte, ngā moenga, ngā kākahu o ia rā. |
| Te Whakahoki | Rerekēngā hoahoa o mua/muri. | Ōrite/whakaatahiai ngā taha e rua. |
He Whakamārama mō te Hanganga o te Kakahu Brocade
Whakautu Poto:
Ka taea te hanga i te miro parauri, engari ehara i te mea he miro noa iho. Ko te rerekētanga matua kei roto i tana tikanga raranga me ngā āhuatanga whakapaipai.
Parāoa Tuku Iho
Rauemi Matua: Hiraka
Āhuatanga: He mea whatu ki ngā miro whakarewa (koura/hiriwa)
Kaupapa: Ngā kākahu kingi, ngā kākahu whakanui
Miro Paraikete
Te momo hou: Te whakamahi i te miro hei muka turanga
Āhua: Kāore i te kanapa whakarewa engari kei te mau tonu ngā tauira teitei
Whakamahinga: Kākahu o ia rā, kohinga raumati
Ngā Rerekētanga Matua
| Momo | Hiraka Paraikete Tuku Iho | Miro Paraikete |
| Kakano | He koi, he kanapa | Ngāwari ake, mātotoru ake |
| Taumaha | Taumaha (300-400 karāma) | Waenga (200-300gsm) |
| Utu | Teitei-mutunga | Utu whaitake |
✔Āe(200-400 gsm), engari ko te taumaha kei runga i
Rauemi turanga (hiraka > miro > polyester) Te matotoru o te tauira
Kāore i te tūtohutia – ka kino pea ngā miro me te hanganga whakarewa.
Ko ētahi miro parakade mekāore he miro whakarewaka taea te horoi ā-ringa i te wā makariri.
